Valpolicella: The easy Italian
The 1970s weren’t all bad, said Eric Asimov in The New York Times. Thanks to a popular Bolla TV ad, Valpolicella—an easygoing red blend from northern Italy—was a wine everyone knew. Though its heavier cousins, Ama rone and Ri passo, are more prized today, Valpolicella has gotten better as its production has plummeted. The best are “quintessential Italian reds,” balancing sweet fruit flavors and “a tart, earthy quality.”
2016 Ca’Rugate Valpolicella Rio Albo ($16). The standout in our recent tasting proved “both sweet and savory, with depth, length, and complexity.”
2016 Le Albare Valpolicella Classico Il Buono ($15). “Classico” indicates the grapes are grown in the heart of the region, and this wine is “round and spicy,” but with staying power.
2015 Corte Sant’Alda Valpo licella Ca’Fiui ($21). This “peppery and floral” Valpolicella features “a welcome bitter touch.” ■